Watch History
Iconic Watches That Shaped Watch Collecting
The Santos, Tank, Reverso, Submariner, Speedmaster, Daytona, Royal Oak, Nautilus and more: the watches every collector should know.
By Brandon Volosov · 6 min read · Updated October 9, 2026
Early icons
- Cartier Santos (1904): one of the first purpose-designed men's wristwatches, made for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont
- Cartier Tank (1917): clean rectangular lines inspired by the shape of military tanks
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (1931): a case that flips over to protect the crystal, originally for polo players
Tool watch legends
- Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (1953) and Rolex Submariner (1953): the templates for the modern dive watch
- Breitling Navitimer (1952): a pilot's chronograph with a slide-rule bezel
- Rolex GMT-Master (1954): developed for airline pilots crossing time zones
- Omega Speedmaster (1957): the "Moonwatch", worn on the lunar surface in 1969
- Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (1963): the racing chronograph that became one of the most sought-after watches
Design revolutions
- Seiko Astron (1969): the first quartz wristwatch
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972): Gérald Genta's steel luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet
- Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976): Genta's porthole-inspired design, now a collecting icon
- Swatch (1983): affordable, playful and credited with helping revive the Swiss industry
Why they still matter
Almost every watch made today borrows something from these designs. Knowing them helps you spot influences, understand prices and appreciate what makes a new watch original. See which modern pieces made Brandon's Favorites, and share your own icons in the forum.
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